Introduction
During a sabbatical time, I walked a portion of this trail
Oct/Nov 2005, from Spirits Bay to Auckland. I then suffered a knee injury and
was forced to abandon the walk. Since then I have walked sections of the
track between Auckland and Otorohanga. I had hoped to write a Trail Guide for
the whole NZ trail and instead have decided to publish progress so far, for those interested.
This 'trail guide' is NOT sanctioned by the Te Araroa Trust who are
compiling their own guide.
Te Araroa (tay-ara-roa) or The Long Pathway is a proposed continuous
hiking trail running the full length of New Zealand, from Cape Reinga (or
Spirits Bay) at the tip of the North Island, to Bluff at the bottom of the South
Island. It is almost 3000kms in length, and a hiker averaging 25kms a day
could expect to complete the walk in approximately 120 walking days. With
adequate rest and contingency days, this equates to a time frame of about 5
months. A younger fitter, more adventurous hiker could do it in less, an older
slower (wiser) hiker, or someone travelling at a more leisurely pace for
whatever reason, might take longer, or spread the walk over several seasons.
The usual season for walking the trail is the Southern Hemisphere spring/summer months Oct 1st to March 31st.
The usual direction to walk the trail is North to South, though it has been walked the other way. The directions given in this Guide are for North to South hikers.
At the time of writing (Dec 2005) approximately 80% of the trail is complete, with the remaining 20% by public roads and limited access across private farmland. The Te Ararora Trust is currently working on completing the remaining links by the end of 2008. Progress on the completion of the track is available from the Te Araroa website www.teararoa.org.nz
Te Araroa crosses a variety of terrain from rugged NZ bush (overseas visitors read ‘jungle’) to long expanses of idyllic beach, through pine forests, assorted towns and cities, along rivers, coastline and in some situations across farmland, where access rights are still in negotiation. Please respect private property and never assume a right of way unless the track is signposted and tagged with obvious (orange) markers.
This Guide is a guide only, and takes no responsibility if you get lost, injured or killed. Some of the route information included here will become outdated as tracks are completed, or re-routed, or as conditions change. It is wise to have NZ Topographical maps (1:50,000 series) for most, if not all of the walk, a compass, good map reading skills and a GPS. There has been at least one fatality on the trail, due to a navigational error and adverse conditions, and most will get lost more than once, as the route is not always obvious.
The ‘days’ set out here are for an average-to-good fitness walker hoping to average 25kms a day. They are only a guideline with suggested stopping off points, plus local information relating to map refs, camp sites, average hiking time, availability of food, water, supplies, internet etc.
Included are sections on the history of the trail, flora and fauna, Maori culture and pronunciation, rules for tramping (NZ term for hiking) and gear considerations. If you’re not a fan of lightweight gear, you will be by the end of the 2nd week. Lugging a heavy pack up some of these very steep forest trails (eg. Herekino and Puketi forests) in difficult conditions will test the best of us.
Finally, as a very great man once said: The price for success in any field is thorough preparation. This walk is not for the feint-hearted, unprepared or unfit. It is a huge distance to walk in any terms and many have failed, so the more thorough your preparation (in terms of your fitness, the gear you carry and your mental approach), the greater chance of success on Te Araroa.
All the best, and have a great trip through one of the most
beautiful countries in the world.
Jules Riding
41 Washington Ave, Glendowie, Auckland 1071, NZ
Tel 64-9-5284363 Fax 64-9-5284364
jj.riding@hotmail.com 021-116-9350
Trail History
The idea of a walking trail the length of New Zealand has been around for over
25 years. The Federated Mountain Clubs of NZ proposed the concept in the
mid-1970s, and development of a north-south route was a priority for the New
Zealand Walkway Commission which began in 1976 under the wing of the Department
of Lands and Survey. It ceased to function effectively at the time the
Department of Conservation (DoC) was formed in 1987, and was technically
abolished when the Walkways Act of 1990 gave management of New Zealand tracks to
DoC, and the initiative for suggested new walkways to the Conservation Boards.
In 13 years the NZWC had put in place over 100
walkways, but had not designed a continuous north-south trail. Conservation
Boards - those bodies appointed by the Minister of Conservation to represent the
public in their oversight of DoC conservancies - and their controlling board,
the Conservation Authority, were now the first agency for getting new walkways
in place,
but the boards and the authority did little. The Walkway Policy published by DoC
in 1995 acknowledged the continued existence of the long trail project, but DoC
didn’t push for it. The department was, at its beginning, under-funded and
trails were low on its agenda. The New Zealand-long trail idea was forgotten,
until the Te Araroa Trust arrived.
In consultation with local authorities, regional authorities,
iwi and other interested groups, Te Araroa Trust designed a route. It then
suggested local authorities do their bit to put it in place. It had some success
with this. The Whangarei District Council, as one example, adopted a walkways
plan - part of Te Araroa - the length of its district. Other councils have put
the route into their district plan. In March 2001, the trail project was adopted
by the Mayors Taskforce for Jobs, an alliance of over 50 councils.
The trust also wanted to engage DoC more directly in the project. Both the
Director-General of DoC, Hugh Logan, and the Minister of Conservation, Chris
Carter, were sympathetic to this, and in October 2001 the Department signed a
Memorandum of Agreement that specified how DoC and the trust would co-operate on
the project.
The trust also became a trail builder. In 1995 it opened a 22 km path between Waitangi and Kerikeri. In 2000 it opened an 18 km route from Meremere to Rangiriri along the Waikato River. In 2001 it opened an 8 km track across Mt Tamahunga behind Leigh township. In 2002 it stiled another 12 km section of the Waikato through to Huntly. In 2002 it began an 120 km Ocean to Ocean walk from Ahipara to Kerikeri in the Far North. As part of that walk it opened a 15 km track through the Herekino Forest in April 2003, stiled a further 6 km of pine-forest track from the exit of the Herekino Forest through to Takahue, and improved the Mangamuka Walkway beyond Takahue.
The Trust
Te Araroa Trust’s current board is: Roger Wilson (chair), Bob Harvey (deputy
chair), David Beattie, David Lilly, Michael Fitchett, Neil Macintyre, Fiona
Mackenzie, Kim Ollivier, Alison Quesnel, Jenny Wheeler. Geoff Chapple is CEO,
Miriam Beatson Secretary and Ken Taylor is Treasurer. Sir Edmund Hillary (now
deceased Jan 11, 2008) and Sir
Wilson Whineray are the Trust's patrons. The Trust's mission is to get a New
Zealand-long walking trail in place by the end of the year 2008.
The Trust can be contacted via email at info@teararoa.org.nz
or at PO Box 5106, Wellesley Street, Auckland 1030, New Zealand. The Trust is a
registered charity, and any donations will be acknowledged with a tax deductible
receipt. www.teararoa.org.nz
General Notes
Climate
NZ has a moderate climate with a high rainfall and temperatures that range from
15° to 25°C during the day, and 5° to 15° C during the night, Oct/Mar. The
South Island extremes are 5°C greater, or more. Weather patterns can change
dramatically in a short space of time, so you should always be prepared for the
worst. Also, the higher the altitude (for example in the South Island), the
greater the extremes and the more quickly the weather can change. Beware!
Conversion Table
To convert kilometres (kms) into miles divide by 1.6
To convert grams into ounces divide by 28
To convert kilograms (kgs) into pounds divide by .453
To convert litres (L) into UK pints divide by .568
To convert litres (L) into US pints divide by .47
Hazards
NZ has only one dangerous animal (the human being), a low level of pollution and
is known world-wide as a clean green safe place to be. However, there are some
hazards and dangers you should be aware of:
River Crossing. 90% of fatalities in the NZ bush occur through drowning while crossing swollen rivers or estuaries. NZ’s high rainfall means that a shallow knee-deep stream can become a raging chest-high torrent in a matter of hours. See section on River Crossing.
Cutty Grass. Some parts of Te Araroa are overgrown to chest height with cutty grass, which is a bush with long thin almost flax-like leaves with razor sharp edges. You can sometimes push through it gently without getting cut. It is best to cover your arms with a shirt and your legs with overtrou if you encounter a lot of it. Should NOT be used as a hand hold when on a slope.
Hitch Hiking. Generally, hitch hiking in NZ is safe, but occasionally our sick society delivers a situation where a hitch hiker is robbed and/or sexually assaulted and murdered. A woman must never hitch hike alone. Tip: photograph the number plate of every car you ride in with your cell phone camera, and send it immediately to a pre-arranged destination, friend or family member.
Getting Lost. Many have died in the NZ bush by getting disorientated on straight forward tracks. If the track is marked, always go back to the last marker and start again. Where possible carry the right Topo Map, a GPS and spare batteries. Be aware that maps are not always 100% accurate, the terrain may change with time and tracks can become overgrown and hard to follow.
Hypothermia. This occurs when the body temperature falls below 35°C, usually due to extreme cold, wet conditions made worse by high winds and/or injury, dehydration or lack of food.
Road Accident. NZ has poor driving standards and consequently a high crash rate. Many pedestrians are killed each year. Use common sense and take all precautions when walking on public roads. Wear a Visibility Patch (bright orange or yellow) on your pack. Traverse blind corners on the opposite side of the road. Treat drivers as idiots and stay off the road if you can.
Giardia and Crypotosporidium. Water that has run of farmland should not be drunk, except in emergencies, due to the likelihood of viruses and micro pests. Even then, it should be filtered, boiled and used with water purifications tabs, if possible. Water from the NZ bush is generally okay, but as a precaution, it is wise to filter it, at least.
Bulls. NZ has one dangerous animal, the domestic bull. Te Araroa crosses farmland from time to time, so if you see a lone bull in a paddock, treat it with the utmost caution. Avoid that paddock, or if you must cross, stay close to the fence line. When a bull stomps the ground or snorts, get ready to run for your life, you’re on his patch. Cows, sheep, goats and steers may be curious but are harmless, so know the difference.
Katipo Spider. This is found in drift wood near beaches, but it is so rare most NZers have never seen one. It is approx 30mm across, and has a red stripe down it’s back. It’s bite can kill. If bitten, or for any poison emergency call 0800-POISON or 0800-764-766 or 03-474-7000.
Pioneer Walkers
AH Reed - walked the full length of NZ on public
roads at the age of 85 in 1960/61. Immortalised in the book ’North Cape To
Bluff’. Inspirational reading. George Spearing - a Devonport fireman
walked the length of the North Island in 1996/97. Geoff Chapple -
visionary for Te Araroa. Trail blazed both islands between 1998 and 2002. His
book ‘Te Araroa, the NZ Trail’ won a Montana Book Award in 2003.
Check out www.teararoa.org.nz for others, including Eric
Martinot, who is very thorough in his account, with an excellent description
of his route, gear, resources and experiences. Very helpful to get the feel of
Te Araroa.
Preparation.
It is wise to prepare thoroughly for this walk long before you start. Some
suggestions:
1. Read everything you can on the track, beginning with the website www.teararoa.org.nz and other associated websites and books, so that you begin to get a feel for what’s involved. Purchase ‘Tramping Smarter’ (see below) if at all possible.
2. Check your fitness level. You need to be able to walk 25kms with a pack comfortably, so in the 3mths prior to your walk, go for a long walk with a pack 20-25kms once a week. Go to the gym to improve your cardiac fitness and upper body strength.
3. Check your gear. Make an exhaustive list of all your gear and weigh every item with kitchen scales to the gram. Aim at buying lightweight options for all your main items, to get your total pack weight, fully laden, below 20% of your body weight.
4. Check the route. Become familiar with the extremes you’ll encounter: mountainous terrain, long beach sections, dense NZ bush etc. Be aware that the track is not always well marked, so it’s important to carry the right 1:50,000 topographical map for each section, and compass/GPS.
5. Check your general bushcraft skills: basic first aid, route finding and map reading, GPS skills, river crossing, and what to do in emergencies.
Resource Book
The best resource book in NZ on tramping (read hiking, trekking or long-distance
walking) is ‘Tramping Smarter’ by Hans Willems, published by The
Halcyon Press 2003 (PO Box 360, Auckland 1015, NZ Ph09-489-5337
info@halcyonpublishing.co.nz). It is an extensive manual on every aspect of
this subject, with chapters on Packs, Sleeping Bags, Tents, Boots, Food, Safety
Precautions, Use of GPS, Map Reading, Weather, Photography, and First Aid. NZers
may borrow this book from their local library, overseas walkers order by email.
River Crossing.
Please read this carefully. It may save your life.
1. Never attempt to cross if the water is discoloured, there is the sound of
rolling boulders, or the sign of debris and trees being carried along in the
current.
2. Do not cross if the water is above thigh height and flowing faster than
walking pace. If in doubt, don’t cross. You can’t drown on the bank.
3. In cold weather conditions, crossings necessitating part or total immersion
of the upper body should not be attempted, for risk of hypothermia.
4. Look for a crossing place that has an even river bed and with easy entry and
exit points.
5. Keep your boots on and place your gear in DrySacs for buoyancy.
6. Cross in a group wherever possible. Keep your waist belt tight and loosen
shoulder straps. Reach between your neighbours back and pack and grab their
waist belt. Just linking arms and/or gripping a thin pole for stability is okay
in shallower water, but this method provides greater rigidity. Strongest people
upstream and on the end. Weakest in the middle.
7. If the group decides not to proceed, either reverse out slowly, or the
downstream person acts as a ‘pivot’ and the group as a whole turns 180°before
returning to the bank. Splitting up is an absolute last resort, and not
recommended.
8. If you fall in, keep calm and don’t panic. Keep your pack on, it will help
you float so long as you can keep your head above water. Otherwise unclip your
pack but keep hold of it for flotation.
9. Be patient. Get the latest weather forecast, go back the way you came, look
for an alternative route, or set up camp and wait for the river to go down.
10. Learn mouth-to-mouth resuscitation and treatment for hypothermia.
For a much fuller description of river crossing see Pages 89-97 of ‘Tramping
Smarter’.
Solo Walkers
It is best to do this walk with a hiking companion, primarily for safety
concerns. You will be in remote areas where you are beyond cell phone coverage,
and days away from medical help. If you are injured or incapacitated, your
companion can go for help, or hike to a ridge where cell phone contact might
mean the difference between life and death. The only people who should tramp
alone are extremely fit and experienced hikers who are well prepared and
equipped for most emergencies, or the foolhardy. If you have any areas of
weakness, the best insurance is a Personal Locator Beacon available from
www.nelsonlakesshuttles.co.nz Solo trampers should leave detailed route
intentions for each section of the track with a friend or contact who can
alert the Police (who will activate Search and Rescue) should you be more than
48hrs overdue.
Tramping Creed
Get fit.
Get the right (light) gear.
Get the right skills: map reading, GPS use, first aid, general bush craft (eg.
river crossing)
Be resourceful, have a resourceful attitude and a good level of determination.
Be prepared mentally, emotionally and physically for the challenges each day
brings.
Be alert and foresee danger, take precautions.
Never rush. Accidents occur when you are rushing.
Never carry a pack more than 20% of your body weight. It can lead to exhaustion
and impaired judgement in critical situations.
Never assume. Assumptions can lead to errors of judgement or wrong choices.
Keep a weather eye and always prepare for the worst, even in the middle of
summer.
Keep aware of your surroundings, in case you need to back track.
And remember, if you’re on the right track, and you keep on plodding, you’ll
get there in the end.
Trip Management
It is wise to have a friend or family member in NZ who can be your ‘Trip
Manager’. This person can ensure that you make it through each section, send
gear or supplies to the next drop off point, seek out local info if needed, and
provide encouragement when you feel like giving up. If you don’t have someone
like this, allow more time for planning yourself and to send out supply parcels
to the various Drop Off Points. In the years that lie ahead for Te Araroa, it is
likely that this will be a service that is offered commercially.
Websites
www.aucklandmapcentre.co.nz
will supply all NZ topo maps
www.doc.govt.nz Dept of Conservation
website
www.greatnztrek.com walk the full
length nz in yearly stages
www.linz.govt.nz more info on topo
maps
www.ollivier.co.nz/download/teararoa
the exact proposed route for Te Araroa
www.maptoaster.com integrate topo
maps with gps
www.martinot.postpro.net/nztrek/b.htm
excellent account of the TA walk 2003/4
www.nelsonlakesshuttles.co.nz
Emergency Locator Beacon hire
www.somewhereinnz.org.nz
excellent account of the TA walk 2005/6
www.teararoa.org.nz
overview of the Te Araroa project
What Overseas Visitors Can Expect
Along this almost 3000km walk you will encounter long stretches of beach,
mountainous terrain, dense NZ ‘bush’ (read jungle), flowing streams, raging
torrents, vigorous hill climbs and stretches of back roads, 4WD tracks and
sealed highways that take you through towns and cities. Some areas are very
remote and potentially dangerous to the unfit or inexperienced. So, you should
not assume that the track is easy to follow all the time, it isn’t. There are
places where the track is overgrown and seems to disappear. You will need common
sense, some route finding skills, a GPS and the right topographical map to
survive. Be thoroughly prepared for all eventualities and have the adventure of
a lifetime in a beautiful country.
Lightweight Gear
Every walker should aim for a pack weight of no more than 20% of their body
weight. So someone who weighs 80kg should aim for a pack weight of approx 16kg.
Some of you will have carried packs far in excess of this, but for a long walk,
exhaustion and the associated impairment of judgment (particularly in difficult
conditions) becomes dangerous.
The tendency for long walkers is to have a ‘just in case’ attitude to their gear. This means you’ll invariably carry more than you need to. Or you’ll have favourite gear that you’ve had for years, not realising that recent technology has produced lighter weight materials. A good exercise is to borrow (or buy from The Warehouse $35) kitchen scales that measure in grams. Weigh everything you are carrying and ask this question about every item: Do I really need this? Here is a sample gear list for an 80kg solo walker (the author!)
All weights in grams
Tramping/Camping Essentials
Pack - DMH Ambassador (incl storm cover & orange visibility cover)
2300
Sleeping Bag - Domex Microcell (incl stuff sack & silk liner) 1082
Boots - Hi Tech Altitude IV 1370*
Tent - Eureka Spitfire 1503
Lilo - Insul Mat & repair kit 654
Day Pack 10L 164
Hiking Pole 218
ESSENTIALS TOTAL: 7291
Wet Weather Gear
Parka 464
Overtrou 131
Puttees nylon (ankles) 59*
Waterproof bags - Drysac 8L (sl bag) & 20L (clothes, technology,
camera) 188
WET WEATHER TOTAL: 842
Cooking
Gaz burner - MSR Pocket Rocket 110
Gaz canister full 363
Billy 1L stainless steel, tin foil lid 196
Favourite Mug 99
Knife & Spoon - Lexan 20
Half Tee Towel 32
Gear Bag 14
Lighter - Bic 22*
Food bag - linen 61
COOKING TOTAL: 917
Food
for 4 days
Muesli 80g x4 320
Muesli bars x8 264
Vogels Multigrain Bread - 8 thick slices 352
Honey 50g/day 200
De-hy meals x4 - ‘Back Country Cuisine’ brand 440
Peppermint teabags 30
Trail mix 50g/day 200
FOOD TOTAL: 1806
Water
Water 3L (daily) 3000
Water Filter - Hydropal 2000 188
Water purification tabs (Iodine) 31
Water bottles 1.25L ‘Pump’ X2 (empty) 94
Hip flask 500ml (empty) 122*
WATER TOTAL: 3435
Technology
Cell (mobile) phone, case, spare battery, charger - Sharp GX15 206*
GPS - Garmin Legend 183*
Torch & 2 spare AA alkaline batteries 134
Headlamp & 2 spare AAA alkaline batteries 83
Transistor Radio Sanyo Slimline (for weather forecasts) 94
TECHNOLOGY TOTAL: 700
First Aid
Essentials: Band Aids 7
Chapstick - lip balm 9*
Crepe bandage x2 66
Foot creme (in film canister) 20
Imodium anti-diarrhoea tabs 16
Insect repellent spray 50
Leukoplast (for blister prevention) 12
Nail scissors 16
Panadeine pain relief 19
Savlon antiseptic creme 18
Sunscreen 20
Voltarin anti inflammatory tabs 3
Weleda Tendinitis Creme (or Voltarin Emulgel, or Deep Heat) 43
Optional: Dimp insect repellent liquid 30
Ear plugs 7
Face Mask (the type you get on airline flights) 8
Lamisil (for Athletes Foot) 15
Lemsip (for head cold & flu) 36
Stingoes (for wasp & bee stings) 50
Vicks inhaler (for stuffy nose) 7*
FIRST AID TOTAL: 452
Clothes
Polyprop tee 135*
Cotton tee 186
Longjohns 118
Long sleeve shirt cotton 282
Long trou / zip off hiking shorts & belt 531*
Polar Fleece jacket 418
Warm Outer Jacket 490
Undies x3 141*
Socks (2 thick Thorlos, 2 thin cotton, polyprop) 280*
Gloves polyprop 35
Hankies x4 48*
Sunhat 46*
Woolly hat x2 (one thick, one thin) 140
Emergency Balaclava polyprop 27
Swim shorts (double as spare shorts) 231
Polarised sunspecs & pouch 61*
Running shoes (preferred choice for evening wear and day walks) 736
Pillow case (= stuff sack for clothes, pillow at night) 51
CLOTHES TOTAL: 3956
Photography
Digital Camera - Kodak DX6490 4mp, 10x Optical zoom 416*
Spare battery, 2 memory cards, & carry case 232
USB cord and battery charger 155
PHOTOGRAPHY TOTAL: 803
Survival
Swiss Army Knife 109*
Emergency Sac 66
Whistle 13
Spare lighter 22
SURVIVAL TOTAL: 210
Miscellaneous
Towel microfibre small 87
Reading glasses in tube 39*
Toiletries (loo roll, toothbrush, toothpaste, razor, soap) 118
Maps x2 122*
Base plate Compass 48*
Wallet 127*
Felt tip pen 10
Plastic bags/rubber bands 38
Notebooks 79
Diary & 2 pens 173
Back Country Hut Pass 9
Pack lock 55
MISCELLANEOUS TOTAL: 905
*CARRIED OR WORN WEIGHT 4786g
PACK WEIGHT 16531g
GRAND TOTAL WEIGHT: 21317g
Gear Considerations
Pack
- Capacity 65L - 75L is best,
forcing you to be economical with your gear. In NZ it is difficult to get a pack
that weighs 2kg or less. The best from the US is the Mountainsmith Auspex at
1729g. Do a web search on this name or check out 3 lightweight websites:
www.backpacking.net www.ultralightbackpacker.com www.tramplight.co.nz
Sleeping bag - The best of the summer weight bags is the Fairydown Supernova at 685g. A cheaper option is the Domex Microcell at 950g.
Boots - Personal preference but comfort and water proofing to a 10cm depth is a great advantage as you cross many streams. Must be well walked in before you begin this long walk. This means your boots have time to adjust to your feet and vice versa.
Tent - Solo tents Eureka Spitfire at 1503g (www.gleasoncamping.com) or Big Agnes Seedhouse SL1 at 1415g (www.bigagnes.com) are light, compact and waterproof. Even for groups of 2 or more hikers, there is a strong case to sleep in separate tents on such an extended hike as this.
Sleeping Mat/ Lilo - The lilo is about the same weight as a Thermarest mat, but the Insul Mat Lilo is cheaper and more comfortable but runs the risk of puncture, and does require inflation (20 breaths).
Day Pack - A good lightweight day pack (15L max) is essential for daytrips and/or spare gear.
Walking Pole - Take two if it helps take the pressure off your knees, and take at least one for stability during river crossings and as an emergency splint.
Parka - Huge range available. Knee length means your hiking shorts don’t get wet when it rains. However, all parkas produce condensation on the inside, so you still get wet.
Overtrou - If they zip up the side you don’t have to take your boots off to put them on. For wet weather and/or walking thru overgrown or dense bush, cutty grass etc.
Puttees - (gaiters, ankles) Helps keep socks dry and assorted debris out of your boots while tramping.
DrySac - On this walk your pack will be immersed from time to time. A DrySac will keep your clothes and electronic/camera gear 100% dry. Plastic bags quickly develop fine holes = NOT waterproof.
Gaz Burner - the lightest, most efficient on the market is the Coleman F1 Lite at 77g followed closely by the Pocket Rocket at 110g.
Gaz Canister - one canister will boil 16X1L of water. Boils 1L in 3.5mins at full throttle.
Billy - If you can afford titanium (lightest) go for it. Make a lid of tin foil. The capacity determined by the no of people in your group (eg. 2 person group, 2L billy).
Food - Measure each day’s rations, take a minimum of food, and eat up large on rest days.
Water - This is your most precious commodity. Begin every tramping day with 3L per person. Never, repeat never ditch water to save weight = false economy. You can survive in the bush without food but you can’t survive without water. A really fit person might consume less water than 3L per day.
Water Filter - NZ streams often have the micro pest giardia and viruses. Always filter as a precaution and boil if possible. If forced to drink water that has run off farmland, use water purification tabs.
Cell (mobile) Phone - Coverage is very poor in the NZ bush, except on some ridges. However, essential item of equipment for emergencies. Carry a spare battery and switch off phone when not in use.
GPS - It is easy to get lost in the NZ bush even though the track is well marked most of the way. A GPS will tell you exactly where you are, provided you have the right map. This is your best insurance for the trip. Can buy 2nd hand from eBay or TradeMe.
Radio - A small Sanyo Slimline transistor radio will cost you $15 from The Warehouse, run on 2 AAA batteries, and provide you with a weather forecast every evening for the next day, essential information.
First Aid - Needs to be a comprehensive kit that covers most eventualities on a 5mth trip.
Clothes - Personal preference, but keep it practical and keep to a minimum if poss.
Polarised Sunspecs - Help with river and estuary crossing, as you can see beneath the glare of the surface. Also, NZ has a very high UV index so protect your eyes.
Camera - Digital is best. Carry a spare 512mb memory card, battery and charger.
Survival - Rehearse in your mind the Worst Case Scenario, so that should you break a leg or get lost, you don’t panic and are psychologically and physically prepared to survive.
Compass - if your GPS dies, can you use a compass and map?
Gear Supplies - recommended Auckland shop, best service, best range of hiking gear and advice for distance hiking/trekking is Bivouac, 300 Broadway, Newmarket (Ph09-529-2298) www.bivouac.co.nz
Best internet service and supplies in NZ (packs, sleeping bags, de-hy meals
in bulk, general items etc) John Bain, The
Expedition Supply Company, 125 Brian Crescent, Whangaparaoa (fong-a-pah-roa)
jbain@slingshot.co.nz
Ph09-424-5052h Ph09-424-4015w www.expedsupply.co.nz
Maori Culture
The unique thing about NZ is not just its wonderful scenery, it is the Maori
culture which permeates the society. Maori place names and phrases mean that the
country has something special to celebrate, and it helps give us our identity.
For example, the haka performed before the All Blacks rugby matches is world
renown because of its intensity and uniqueness.
Maori Pronunciation
In this Guide, basic Maori pronunciation for place names is listed phonetically
in brackets. It should be noted that these are only approximate and may require
some practice. Be open to correction from those who actually speak Maori, and
realise there may be variations, even within Maori culture. Note, the plural of
Maori is ‘Maori’ (mau-ree or moh-ree).
Five vowels: a e i o u
Eight consonants: h k m n p r t w
Two digraphs: wh ng
All Maori sounds are governed by the vowel sounds. Each vowel may be long or short, but it must not be varied. When two vowel sounds come together in a word, each must be given its own sound. By way of comparison, take the sounds of the letter ‘a’ in the following English words: hay at all another
In each case the ‘a’ has a different sound. In Maori, there is NO
VARIATION.
The following are the vowel sounds:
long short
a as in far about
e as in bed enter
i as in sheep dip
u as in boot put
The vowel o in Maori is difficult to pronounce correctly, as the English o is a
combination of o and u. In Maori the o is clipped, like the aw sound in
awful, or the or sound in pork.
Place a consonant before any vowel:
p before a pa sound as pah
h before i hi sound as he
m before u mu sound as moo
k before o ko sound as kaw (clip the vowel sound)
t before u tu sound as too
Every sound in the Maori language is contained in the following table:
a e i o u
ha he hi ho hu
ka ke ki ko ku
ma me mi mo mu
na ne ni no nu
pa pe pi po pu
ra re ri ro ru
ta te ti to tu
wa we wi wo wu
nga nge ngi ngo ngu
wha whe whi - -
The wh and the ng sound need great care. wh is usually
pronounced as f (except in some tribal areas of the north) and the ng
is like the ng in hangar
Summarised from ‘Teach Yourself Maori’ by KT Harawira, published by Reed in 2004
Key
The track is divided into SECTIONS for convenience only, with the
expectation that a section will take no more than 4-6 days, depending on
fitness, weather conditions and contingencies. This arbitrary division of the
track is to facilitate the planning of rest days, the contacting of DoC (Dept of
Conservation) for track, camping ground or tide info, and drop off points for
supplies.
Tramping times are only approximate for an average to good fitness walker, taking regular rest or photo breaks, with half an hour for lunch, in good weather conditions. They are a guide only.
Grades. Grade 1 - easy walk, no hills, short to moderate distance, not at
all demanding
Grade 2 - easy walk, but with some degree of difficulty (hills or distance)
Grade 3 - moderate walk, with distance or hills to negotiate
Grade 4 - moderate to hard walk, with hills, distance or tricky terrain to
traverse
Grade 5 - challenging walk with long distance, hills and/or difficult terrain to
navigate
or traverse
Grade 6 - extremely challenging walk in all regards, particularly in adverse
weather
NOTE: These grades are only a guide, and everything is more difficult in bad
weather!
Topo Map. This stands for NZ Topographical Map, 1:50,000 series, unless
otherwise stated.
It is assumed that ALL WALKERS will have NZ Topo Maps and a GPS (essential). It
should be noted that the 1:250,000 series does not show enough detail to be of
practical use for navigation, except as a general planning overview for one or
more sections.
Route. Please note these directions are only generalised and not exhaustive. They assume that the walker will have a Topo Map and a GPS, have good common sense, and route finding skills. Overseas walkers should not assume that the trail is always well marked or easy to find.
Watch For. Items of interest along the way.
Beware. Areas of difficulty or danger, possible hazards or challenges. Please note, everything is always more difficult and dangerous in adverse weather.
Stay. Suggestions for where to pitch your tent. Not all camp grounds are listed.
Martinot Variation. A variation from the established route, so that you are aware you have a choice. Named in honor of Eric Martinot, one of the pioneer walkers of the track. Gives rise to the phrase: ‘Let’s do a Martinot..’ which means ‘Let’s take the alternative route..’
Rest Day/s. For longevity, it is recommended that you have at least one rest day after each section. Rest Days are generally planned for locations which have good facilities and/or notable tourist features.
DROP OFF POINT. Suggested drop off point, usually a Camp Ground, for spare gear and/or supplies, at the end of each section. Most Camp Ground managers are happy to do this for you but it pays to make email contact first.
Getting There
Auckland to Kaitaia (ky-tie-ah) Intercity
Bus Ph09-623-1503
departs daily 8.15am from Sky City, Albert St, Central Auckland Arrives 3.15pm
$71
www.intercitycoach.co.nz www.flexipass.co.nz
Kaitaia Motor Camp 69A South Rd, Kaitaia Ph/Fx09-408-1212 Tent Site $9
Kaitaia DoC (Dept of Conservation) for track, tide and Camp Ground
info Ph09-408-6014
Kaitaia to Waitiki Landing or Cape Reinga Harrisons Tours 0800-227-373 or
09-408-1033
$40 includes lunch (part of a tour) dep 8.45am daily (why-tiki, cape
ray-enga)
Waitiki Landing Camp Ground (Shop, restaurant) tent site $7
Transport to Cape Reinga $25 or Spirits Bay $30 by arrangement
Spirits Bay (Kapowairua) Camp Ground, water, cold showers, tent site $6
administered by DoC
Ph09-409-7521 Te Paki Field Centre
Day 1: Spirits
Bay to Tapotupotu Bay (tah-potu-potu) 7hrs
Grade: 4 steep in parts, track well formed and easy to follow
Topo Map: M02/N02 North Cape
Route: Follow the 4WD track west from the Camp Ground, well marked with
orange markers.
Don’t walk on the beach unless you particularly like beach walking,
One estuary to cross at Pandora (crossable except at high tide).
Track heads inland with spectacular views of the coastline in both directions.
Steep knee-jarring descent down to idyllic Tapotupotu Bay.
Watch for: Wild horses photo opportunity, first view of Cape Reinga
Lighthouse
Beware: Estuary crossing. All river/estuary crossing should be treated with
respect.
Have waterproof pack liner or ‘DrySacs’ for gear protection, NOT plastic
bags.
Stay: Tapotupotu Bay Camp Ground, water, cold showers, tent site $6
administered by DoC
Ph09-409-7521 Te Paki Field Centre
Martinot Variation: The Te Araroa trail officially begins at Cape Reinga but
starting at Spirits Bay
adds just one day to the trip and is a spectacular and justifiable alternative.
Day 2: Tapotupotu
Bay to Cape Reinga to Te Paki Stream 12hrs
(10hrs if starting from C Reinga)
Grade: 5 (6 in adverse weather) long hard day if starting from Tapotupotu
Bay or Cape Reinga
Topo Map: N03 Houhora,
Route: Follow the shingle road out of Tapotupotu Bay.
Turn right when you meet the main road (still a shingle road) to Cape Reinga.
Leave 90mins before dawn if you want to catch the lighthouse dawn at Cape
Reinga.
Once you’ve seen the lighthouse and taken your pics follow the Cape Reinga
Coastal Walkway (cliff
top, sign posted).
(If the weather is adverse, particularly with high winds, there is a safer
inland route:
Go back along the road, past the Tapotupotu turn-off, a total of about 5km.
Look for the green DoC sign on the right and follow the markers across farmland
to
Te Werahi Beach and link up with the Coastal Walkway again..)
Twilight Beach, past Pukekarea trig station and Scott Point to start of 90
Mile Beach.
Walkway generally well marked with orange markers.
Once you hit 90 Mile Beach beyond Scott Point, follow the beach for about 5km to
Te Paki Stream (this is where beach traffic enters and exits the beach)
Look for: Spectacular scenery all day, particularly Cape Maria van Diemen
and 1st view of 90 Mile Beach from Scott Point
Beware: There are very few drinkable streams, take extra water for a long
day.
The trail follows a 4WD track leading to Scott Point. If you meet a gate across
this track, you’ve gone too far. Back track to the last orange marker and look
for the
turn off to the right.
One estuary to cross (difficult at high tide).
Stay: Camp in the shelter of trees at Te Paki Stream, good water supply.
Reminder: Candles and open fires are illegal on this trail.
Day 3: Te
Paki Stream to The Bluff and beyond 11hrs
Grade: 5 (6 in adverse weather) long hard beach slog, sometimes in
soft sand
Route: The trail follows the beach all the way to Ahipara. It is 88kms in
length (not 90 miles), so divide the remaining distance (83kms) by 3 and you
have a daily beach walk of about 28kms. No one finds this easy, except bikers,
the insane and the super-fit.
There are many drinkable streams, the full length of the beach.
Look for: Endless flotsam and jetsam, including wrecks of cars that didn’t
make it.
Bird life, wild horses, fishermen, eccentrics, locals, interesting cloud
patterns.
Beware: Blisters and foot damage. Use foot creme before each day begins and
catch small blisters
before they become large blisters. Hiking poles come into their own here.
Stay: Camp in the shelter of trees at The Bluff, or a further 5km along if
you can handle it.
Day 4: The
Bluff (or beyond) to Hukatere (hook-a-terry)
11hrs
Grade: 5 (6 in adverse weather) long hard beach slog, sometimes in
soft sand.
Route: Follow the beach, dummy!
Look for: More flotsam, interesting sand patterns, images of your life
passing thru your mind.
Beware: More blisters, bus loads of indifferent tourists, wind-blown sand in
everything.
Stay: Camp in the shelter of trees before or beyond Hukatere.
Day 5: Hukatere
to Ahipara (ah-he-pa-ra) 12hrs
Grade: 5 (6 in adverse weather) very long hard beach slog, sometimes
in soft sand.
Route: Make an early start and follow the beach all the way to Ahipara.
Note, there is a Forestry Road behind the sand dunes, all the way from Hukatere
to Waipapkauri (why-pap-a-cow-ree) as an alternative if the tide is high
or you want shelter from the prevailing westerly wind, or a change of scenery.
Look for: Something, anything of note to relieve the boredom of endless
beach walking.
Beware: The toll on your legs and feet. If you don’t make it all the way
to Ahipara, spend another night
camped in trees, or at Waipapakauri Motor Camp (Ph09-406-7298)
Stay: Ahipara Motor Camp, 168 Takahe St, Ahipara Ph09-409-4864 Fx09-409-2118
pinetree@xtra.co.nz www.ahipara.co.nz
DROP OFF POINT for
sending or receiving gear/supplies
Rest Day/s: Ahipara (pop 1038) is a small, predominantly Maori
settlement with limited facilities.
However, the neighbouring town of Kaitaia (pop 5151) which is a 15km hitch-hike,
has a much better range of facilities: supermarket, internet, DoC Office, Post
Office, cafes, sports shop, assorted adventure tourism. The area has a pioneer
history relating to the logging of kauri trees and associated gum fields.
Day 6: Ahipara
to Takahue (tack-a-huey) 12hrs
Grade: 5 (6 in adverse weather) Steep climb and descent thru the
Herekino Forest
Topo Map: N04 Ahipara, N05 Herikino, brochure of Herikino Forest Track from
DoC
Route: From the Motor Camp follow Roma Road and Kaitaia Avaroa Road (both
sealed) to the start
of the Herikino Forest Track. This track is reasonably well marked with orange
markers, though
overgrown in some places.
Half way through the forest, the track meets a 4WD track (Pukepoto Access Road)
Turn left onto this
and follow for about 20mins before turning right, back onto the track (sign
posted).
When the track exits the forest, turn right and follow the 4WD track to the
road.
Turn right onto this road (Digger Valley Rd) and walk 1km to the start of the
Juken Nissho Forest Track on your left. Follow the markers through this lovely
pine forest until you come out onto Waiotehue Road (why-o-tey-huey).
Turn left onto this road and follow down to the small settlement of Takahue.
Look for: Dense NZ bush (think ‘jungle’), native birds, kauri trees
Beware: This is a long hard day, leave at first light, carry plenty of water
Stay: Peter & Sabrina Griffiths Ph09-408-3685 longflat@igrin.co.nz
Peter offers a pick up and drop off service, plus a meal and a bed for the
night,
for a nominal fee. Pre-arrange the night before as cell phone coverage is
marginal. They run an
organic farm where you can work for your keep.
Day 7: Takahue
to Mangamuka (mung-ga-mooka) 7hrs
to end of track, plus 10km road walk or hitch to Mangamuka Bridge Hotel (State
Highway 1)
Grade: 4 A steep climb and descent through the Raetea Forest
Topo Map: O05 Rawene
Route: From Takahue Town Hall follow Takahue Saddle Rd (shingle).
this road narrows and eventually forks at a green DoC sign.
Take the right hand fork, even though the left looks correct.
Follow to the stream and farm gate.
Follow the 4WD track up the hill to the top.
The track starts off to the left, once the 4WD track reaches the saddle (at the
top)
It is reasonably well marked with orange markers, but overgrown in places.
Follow this track until you come out to State Highway 1.
Walk or hitch to the Mangamuka Bridhe Hotel.
Look for: Lots of dense native NZ bush, native birds, kauri trees.
Beware: The start of the bush track is obscured and not well marked
Stay: Mangamuka Bridge Hotel, $35 a night Ph09-401-8944 Meals and takeaway
food available.
Day 8: Mangamuka
to Puketi Forest Hut 12hrs
Grade: 5 (6 in adverse weather) Long hard walk on mainly back roads
Topo Map: O05 Rawene, P05 Kaikohe
Route: Follow Highway 1 past Mangamuka Bridge.
Left into Omahuta Road, which becomes Jacksons Road.
Right into Mokau Ridge Road (or Pupuke Mangapa Road listed by Eric Martinot).
This becomes the Omataroa Ridge Road.
Right onto the Onekura Route, just past the airstrip and quarry
(ask DoC Kaitaia or Kerikeri for detailed directions where the track begins)
Left onto the track that leads to the Forestry HQ Hut, follow the topo map!
Look for: Rugged scenery
Beware: The 2 maps above, a compass and a GPS are essential for this
section.
Check your GPS position regularly to ensure you’re on the right road. You’ll
be walking close to 40kms
this section so can’t afford any wrong turns.
Stay: Puketi Forest Hut, $9 a night, administered by DoC Kerikeri
Ph09-407-8474
18 bunks, hot water, fridge, electric stove, potbelly stove, shower.
Note: At this stage, Te Araroa has no straight forward safe all-weather
route through Omahuta and
Puketi Forests. The above route was recommended by DoC Kerikeri.
Check closely with DoC in Kerikeri or Kaitaia before attempting this section.
Day 9: Puketi to Kerikeri 6hrs
Grade: 3 Mainly back roads, into Kerikeri, fairly gentle.
Topo Map: P05 Kaikohe
Route: From the Puketi Hut, follow the road approx NE for 1km.
Turn right into Waiere Road and follow for about 4kms.
At the crossroads, turn left into Puketotara Road and follow for about 8kms.
Turn left into Mangakaretu Road and follow for about 2kms.
Look for the start of the Kerikeri Walkway on the right.
Follow the walkway until it meets State Highway 10, about 6kms
Follow the banks of the Kerikeri River until it meets Waipapa Road, over 2kms.
Follow Waipapa Road and turn right into Rainbow Falls Road.
Rejoin the Kerikeri Walkway until you meet the historic Stone Store.
Follow the main road up the hill into Kerikeri
Look for: Signs of life, you are now re-entering civilisation
Beware: Fatigue after the previous days walks.
Stay: Aranga Top 10 Holiday Park, Kerikeri Road Ph0800-272-642 Ph09-407-9326
mail@aranga.co.nz www.aranga.co.nz Fx09-407-9897 Tent site $11
Note: Kerikeri (pop 4854) is a tourist centre for arts and craft. It has all
the facilities: supermarket, cafes, internet, post office, DoC Office, plus The
Outdoor Shop, 71 Main Road Ph09-407-7641 alanmorton@paradise.net.nz for outdoor
supplies, advice about the trail, gear, some maps etc.
Day 10: Kerikeri
to Paihia 6hrs
Grade: 3 Pleasant walk through Kerikeri and forestry roads to Paihia
Topo Map: P05 Kaikohe
Route: From central Kerikeri follow Cobham Road and turn left into Kerikeri
Inlet Road.
After 5kms (on the outskirts of town) look for the start of the Forestry Road on
the right.
Follow the Forestry Roads Te Wairoa, Te Puke, Haruru Falls Rd to Paihia.
Martinot Variation: Follow the Skyline Road off Te Wairoa (one hour longer,
more rugged)
for spectacular views of Bay of Islands in good weather.
Martinot Variation 2: At Haruru Falls Road turn left and follow down to
historic Waitangi (the birth
place of the nation), OR turn right and follow to Paihia via beautiful Haruru
Falls.
Either of these options could be revisited on your day/s off.
Look for: First views of the East Coast, panoramic views of Bay of Islands,
Hobson Hill lookout.
Beware: Logging trucks in pine forest, golf carts approaching Waitangi,
tourists in droves!
Stay: Bay of Islands Holiday Park, Puketona Road Ph09-402-7646 Fx09-402-7604
PO Box 393, Paihia bayofislandsholidaypark@xtra.co.nz
www.bayofislandsholidaypark.co.nz Tent site $12
DROP OFF POINT for
sending or receiving gear/supplies
Rest day/s: Paihia (Pop 1836) is one of the Tourist Meccas of NZ, and
rightly so.
You could spend a week here and still not do/see everything.
DoC Office: DoC Russell Ph09-403-9005
Day 11: Paihia
to Helena Bay 12hrs (depending whether
you hitch the 15kms to the start of the Russell Forest track, and hitch the
10kms from the end of track to Helena Bay)
Grade: 4 Long day, but forest section pleasant and not too demanding
Topo Map: Q05 Bay of Islands
Route: Follow the Paihia to Opua Walkway (brochure from any Tourist outlet).
Take the car ferry across the bay to Okiato Point (regular crossings every
10mins).
Follow Aucks Road, turn right into Russell Road (shingle) and look for the green
DoC sign for the
Russell Walkway at the start of the track, approx 15kms from Okiato.
Follow the Russell Walkway track to Punaruku Road (4WD) then out to the main
road.
Walk or hitch the 10kms to Helena Bay.
Note: Te Araroa hopes to link Okiato with Waihaha, at the head of the
Waikare Inlet by launch.
Then take the track just north of Waihaha to join up with the Russell Walkway.
DoC advises this track from Waihaha is currently overgrown and not maintained.
Martinot Variation: Instead of heading to Helena Bay, you could walk down to
the Motor Camp
at Oakura Bay (Ph09-433-6803), $10 tent site. oakuramotelsandhp@xtra.co.nz
Look for: Sub tropical vegetation, Nikau Palms and copious Kauri trees and
native birds.
Beware: This is a long day distance-wise, start at first light, take plenty
of water.
Hunters in the Russell forest, wear bright clothing and don’t stray off the
track.
Stay: Camp in the closed-down Helena Bay Primary School grounds for free.
Ask permission at the school house first.
Day 12: Helena
Bay to Whananaki (fon-a-naky) 8hrs
Grade: 3 A mainly back road walk that includes wonderful idyllic
beach sections.
Topo Map: Q06 Hukerunui
Route: From Helena Bay follow Webb Road to Mimiwhangata Road (mimi-fang-ata)
Follow this road down to the beach and follow the beach as far as you can.
Be aware this last section is across private Maori land, so if approached,
permission
should be sought to cross. They have a legal right to stop you, so be polite.
Look for the shingle road leading up the hill.
Follow this road (eventually becomes sealed) to Whananaki.
The camp ground is near the wooden footbridge to Whananaki South.
Martinot Variation: Instead of following Webb Road, you can follow a 4WD
track to the left, just after
Ngawai Bay. This leads down to Ngahau Bay then follows another track to link
with Mimiwhangata
Road again. You will be crossing Maori land, so permission is likely.
Look for: Owai Farm Wildlife Sanctuary (Ph09-433-6836), south of Helen Bay.
Unique birdlife.
Longest wooden footbridge of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere at Whananaki.
Beware: Respect private land owners, seek permission to cross where
possible.
Stay: DoC Campsite at Otamure Bay (o-tah-moo-ree) 3kms before
Whananaki with water, cold
showers and a tent site for $6/night. Right next to the beach.
OR Whananaki North Motor Camp, PDC Whananaki Ph/Fx09-433-8896
whananaki@igrin.co.nz $12 tent site, hot showers, kitchen, phone, shop.
takeaways
Day 13: Whananaki
to Ngunguru 8hrs
Grade: 3 Mainly road walk (can be busy weekends and holidays) with
two moderate overland sections.
Topo Map: Q06 Hukerunui
Route: From Whananaki cross the wooden footbridge, follow the coast or turn
left and head east
towards the beach.
You’ll pick up a 4WD track heading south which zig-zags its way south. Well
marked.
Eventually you’ll pick up McAuslin Road (shingle) leading into Matapouri Road
(sealed).
At Matapouri turn right into Clements Road, which becomes a 4WD track.
Take the right fork and follow your Topo Map to Waiotoi Road to Ngunguru.
Martinot Variation: Instead of going inland at Clements Road, you can walk
the main road to
Ngunguru, which is quite safe provided you cross to the opposite side of the
road on blind corners,
and don’t mind walking in traffic.
Look for: Captain Bouganville Monument, south of Whananaki South. Side trip
one hour max.
Beware: Heavier traffic on weekends and holidays. Ngunguru camp ground is
closed.
Stay: Ask locals for their advice. If no suitable accommodation available,
then go to the boat ramps
along the waterfront and see if you can hitch a ride across the Ngunguru River
and camp on Ngunguru
Sandspit. This is Maori land so permission is desirable.
Day 14: Ngunguru
tp Pataua (pah-toa, common
mis-pronunciation is pah-tow) 4-6hrs
Grade: 3 This is a tricky section as you have to cross 2 rivers and
negotiate some tricky mudflat
coastline, before reaching Horahora.
Topo Map: Q06 Hukerunui, Q07 Whangarei
Route: Begin at least 2 hours before LOW TIDE.
From Ngunguru cross the Ngunguru River by boat to the Sandspit or to the
start of a
track marked on your Topo Map at approx 2645300E 6616500N.
Head south until you hit the Horahora River.
Head east on the northern bank of the Horahora river until you get to the low
tide
crossing point at approx 2646900E 6613250N and head for the beach.
Follow the beach to Pataua North, cross the bridge to Pataua South.
Ask directions to the motor camp.
Martinot Variation: Opt to skirt some of this section with its mudflats and
pitfalls by hitching to
Horahora via Glenbervie (about 45mins drive time total).
Beware: Make sure you have the exact time of LOW TIDE (critical) before you
start.
The coastal route from the Sandspit is precarious and not recommended.
Stay: Treasure Island Motor Camp, Pataua South, RD1, Onerahi, Whangarei
Ph09-436-2390 treasure@xtra.co.nz www.treasureislandnz.co.nz
$13 tent site, takeaway food, water, phone, kitchen, hot showers, internet, no
shop
DROP OFF POINT for
sending or receiving gear/supplies
Rest day/s: Pataua has a lovely beach, great swimming and fishing,
and a holiday ambience
all year round. Great place to relax, unwind and plan, though it has no shops
for basic supplies, so
have them sent to you, or hitch hike into Whangarei 30kms (Pop 40,137).
DoC Office: DoC Whangarei Ph09-438-0299 www.doc.govt.nz
Day 15: Pataua
to Whangarei Heads 4hrs by road, 10hrs by
the coastal route
Grade: 2 (by road) 4 (by coastal route)
Topo Map: Q07 Whangarei (fong-a-ray)
Route: By road, follow Pataua South Road (sealed).
Turn left into Whangarei Heads Road (sealed) and follow to Whangarei Heads,
about 18kms total.
Coastal route: Follow Pataua South Road.
About 5kms out of Pataua turn left and either follow the zigzag coast line of
the Taiharuru
River (intended course for Te Araroa) or Harombe Road to Kauri Mountain Road.
To the end of Ocean Beach, and follow the cliff top track to Smugglers Bay.
Whangarei Heads Road to Urquharts Bay, Reotahi Bay and Whangarei Heads.
Beware: Fast traffic on sealed roads
Stay: Call Roy Brickell Ph09-434-0585 for advice re accommodation, or ask
locals.
Day 16: Whangarei
Heads to Waipu Cove (why-poo) 8hrs
Grade: 3 Mainly beach slog with two deviations inland.
Topo Map: Q07 Whangarei
Route: To get across Whangarei Harbour from the Heads you need to hire a
Water Taxi
or hitch a ride with locals. Quite a few people commute across the water to the
Oil Refinery, so with a
bit of help, this can be arranged the previous day.
Follow the beach south, two rivers to cross.
The first is at Ruakaka (Pop 1020) which locals say can be crossed at low tide.
Otherwise, head through the dunes and inland past the Racecourse.
Go to the right of the Racecourse and follow the roads north and west around
until
you hit the main road and head south again. This will enable you to cross the
only
bridge across the river.
Follow your nose for quite a few kms and then head back towards the beach.
Follow the beach to the Waipu River.
Free river crossing service provided by Mrs van Beek (Ph09-432-0821), otherwise
walk several kms
inland to a bridge crossing.
Follow beach remaining kms to Waipu Cove.
Look for: The unique spatial architecture of the Marsden Point Oil Refinery
The monolithic green building north of Ruakaka (rua-car-ca), which is a
defunct power
station called Marsden B, due for re-ignition with NZ’s energy crisis.
Beware: The Waipu River is not crossable on foot at any time.
Stay: Camp Waipu Cove, Cove Road, RD2, Waipu Cove Ph09-432-0410.
info@CampWaipuCove.com $10 tent site, water, hot showers, kitchen, shop, cafes.
Lovely idyllic camp ground, right on the water front.
Day 17: Waipu
Cove to Mangawhai to Pakiri 11hrs
Grade: 3 Road walk to Mangawhai Heads (mang-a-fy), beach walk
to Pakiri (park-iri)
Topo Map: Q07 Whangarei, R09 Warkworth
Route: From Waipu Cove follow the main road south to the township of
Mangawhai Heads.
If you have time, walk into the township and have coffee at Barracuda, and talk
to locals about getting
across Mangawhai harbour.
Otherwise, go down to the harbour boat ramps and see if you can hitch a ride
across.
If all else fails, you must take a 2hr diversion by walking to the separate
township of Mangawhai via
Molesworth Drive, and continue on towards the beach via Insley Street,
Black Swamp Road and Pacific Road (forestry).
Follow the beach all the way to Pakiri.
Just one promontory to negotiate. Don’t attempt going around the rocks, as
there is a
good path across. At the top, the track divides into 3, go straight ahead to the
beach.
If you don’t make it all the way to Pakiri, camp in trees before Pakiri.
One small drinkable stream about 1hr before Pakiri.
Pakiri River estuary is shallow and easy to ford.
Look for: Surfers on Pakiri Beach. Your last glimpse of the East Coast
Beaches.
Beware: Traffic on the road walk.
Stay: Pakiri Beach Holiday Park, 261 Pakiri River Road, RD2, Wellsford
Ph/Fx09-422-6199 pakiri@khh.co.nz Tent site $14
Day 18: Pakiri
to Warkworth 11hrs
Grade: 4 Steep climb up Mt Tamahunga, map reading skills required on
Option 2.
Topo Map: R09 Warkworth
Route: From Pakiri Beach walk SE to Pakiri town (Pop 89) via Pakiri River
Road, about 2kms.
At the crossroads, go straight ahead into Bathgate Road, past the school.
Look for the sign at the start of the track, and follow the fence line to the
top.
Track (across farm land) is marked by intermittent white markers.
Continue to follow white markers, then orange markers through sub tropical bush
to
the summit of Mt Tamahunga (437m).
OPTION ONE: After the summit follow the track (orange markers) out to Omaha
Valley Road, then
walk or hitch to Matakana and Warkworth.
OPTION TWO: Just after the summit follow the ridge track straight ahead
(pink ribbons)
to Matakana Valley Road. Walk south on this road to Govan Wilson Road on the
right.
The proposed Te Aroroa track begns just to the left, inside gate at 285 Govan
Wilson Road, at approx
2660230E / 6541560N. There are currently 2 driveways there, the TA route is the
clay 4WD track on the left one. Follow track / logging road to right.
Head south just before Peak 380 (tagged route) and follow ridges to cross
Waiwhiu River.
Turn left and follow this to near Peak 329, then follow ridges curving around to
the west until it
connects with the Dome Track (it doesn’t start until the kauri grove).
Good map reading skills are required for this option as this route has yet to be
established
Te Araroa hopes to open this route summer of 05/06.
Look for: Native birds, tuis, rifleman, robins
Beware: Steep climb up to Tamahunga. Map reading skills required for Option
2.
Stay: Sheepworld Caravan Park, Dome Valley, RD, Warkworth 1241 Ph09-425-9962
n.gail@sheepworldcaravanpark.co.nz www.sheepworldfarm.co.nz
DROP OFF POINT for
sending or receiving gear/supplies
Rest day/s: Sheepworld is a miniature farm and tourist centre, with
daily shows and souvenirs.
Warkworth (Pop 2826, 2kms south) is a quaint town with all facilities:
supermarket,
internet, banks, sports shop, Post Office, cinema, wharfe and 10 real estate
agents!
It is driving distance to excellent surf beaches and fishing spots.
DoC Office: DoC Warkworth Ph09-425-7812
to be continued...........................
walk
wisdom
authority
love
knowledge
walk in love, walk in the authority of love
love yourself, love your mate
walk in the love of God
whisper his name to yourself
at night, in your dreams, as you dream
walk, in solitude, his hand on your elbow
and together, your head rested
in the crook of his arm
grow in knowledge
the knowledge that
walking in love, will grow you in wisdom
wisdom grants freedom of movement
and authority
as you walk
walk